Is it worth all the effort?
We live in a home built in 1915. Of course it doesn’t have any insulation. I was doing research and just read your tips on insulating a finished attic. Do you recommend adding insulation into walls of old homes? If so, what type is best?
If an older home is undergoing major renovations that include opening up the exterior walls, adding wall insulation can be done rather easily and inexpensively. It can also be installed properly to prevent issues with uneven distribution and moisture condensing. If you’re considering blowing in insulation into finished wall cavities, then no, I don’t recommend it. Given the opportunity, I try to talk folks out of doing it. That doesn’t mean that I don’t recommend any improvements to increase efficiency. I just try to advise efforts that are cost effective and don’t significantly alter the historic character of old homes.
We know an older home like yours was obviously built without insulation. The people that built it knew it too. It’s possible that your home has some design features that optimize heating efficiency to some extent, considering the limited technology of that time. A study by the Energy Research and Development Administration (now part of the Department of Energy) showed that buildings with the poorest energy efficiency were built between 1940 and 1975!
Distribution and Cost Effectiveness
One of the issues with blowing in wall insulation is the distribution. It can be quite uneven and with certain methods of old wall framing it can result in significant pockets that don’t receive any product. I’m also concerned about an insulated wall assembly that doesn’t have a vapor barrier. There’s considerable moisture in the air of a home and without a complete barrier, the moisture can condense inside the wall–not a good thing for the wall or the insulation. The hundreds of holes in the walls that need to be patched isn’t a big plus either.
The other issue with adding wall insulation is the return on the investment. Most studies I’ve seen show that retrofitting wall insulation is so costly that the return is measured in decades, not years, like other home efficiency improvements. For example, I was at a seminar that presented a study using an average size home in Minneapolis, MN. The cost of blowing insulation into the walls would be over $4000.00. The annual savings would be around $160.00. Math wasn’t my best subject but I know if I invest four grand, I’d want to break even before a quarter of a century passes.
Start with Reducing Drafts
For improving efficiency, my personal efforts and money are first spent on reducing drafts. If you can feel cold air coming into the heated area of your home, there’s heated air leaving somewhere else. If you really want to find the points of air infiltration, you can have a firm that uses a “blower door” test your home. The blower creates a negative pressure and air comes in all the leaky points. Using a smoke puffer, the leaks are identified and sealed.
Open attics are the next to focus on. Unlike finished walls, there’s usually access to most areas. Before adding insulation, be sure to seal any air leaks through the ceiling below, then insulation can be added. Blown-in can usually be easily sprayed or batt insulation rolled out to cover the entire attic. I suggest getting it up close to a depth of 12 inches. Don’t forget to insulate over the access hatch or put an insulated cover over the stairs.
If continuing your improvements, consider adding storm windows, if not present, have your heating equipment serviced, and look into updating/upgrading your heating system if it’s an ancient mass of cast iron bigger than a mini-van.


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9 Responses to “Adding Wall Insulation”
Nice writing. You are on my RSS reader now so I can read more from you down the road.
Allen Taylor
I am remodeling and adding on to a home that was my grandfathers first home. It was build in the early 1900s. I’m not too worried about the cold as I am the Heat here in texas. What can I do to it to make it more energy effecient in the summer? It has no insulation, shiplap walls, hardwood floors, and ceiling, and tin roof… I have been kicking around the idea of insulating the attic and floor, and possibly getting insulation blown into the walls as well.. Thank you Wesley Peschel
Is it possible to add cellulose insulation in older homes - possibly via holes in topplates in attic? Any thoughts?
Isn’t it costly to add this insulation? Would replacing windows be a better alternative?
Actually replacing your windows is NOT a cost effective thing to do. Studies have shown putting storm windows on them you will get your money back under 5 years. Replacing your windows you won’t get your money back for over 200 years!! Go figure. Also I believe there have been studies that say putting the newer storm windows over old windows insulates better than the new double pain windows.
I would not agree that wall insulation is not worthwhile. It was relatively easy to dense pack the walls in our 1920s bungalow with cellulose and not very expensive. The house is so much more comfortable and when combined with air sealing and attic insulation, we cut our gas bills in half! We had the walls inspected pre and post insulation with an infrared camera so that no spots were missed. We did not replace the windows - that was less cost-effective.
I just bought a house built in 1912. Love the old house but have no Idea where to start. It is very cold. First thing this year I will put in a newer furnace and a batt of insulation in the attic. Then maybe the basement floors. The walls stay cold. It is a two story with a full attic and basement. Any idea’s please let me know..It is a brown stone with plaster walls.
I called in Insulation contractor to see if I need extra insulation in exterior walls because I feel it is too cold in winter time and hot in summer, the walls are brick and inside is plaster, after putting a 1 inch hole from inside he discovered there is an paperback insulation and he discouraged me to have use cellulose blowed in. On the other hand he was insisting to put insulation on the attic, anyway I did not do either so far, Now if you do not mind I want to ask; 1st. for the attic, there is a paper (vapour barrier) under the batt insulation cut to fit between ceiling joists then they put insulation on the paper, do I should change this paper or leave it?. What shpould I use to replace it?. 2nd. Should I add insulation in exterior walls and what type? Thank you in advance and I hope get a response from you…
I read the previous comments and your recommendations in how to insulate old houses and they make at lot sense. I own a 100+ year house with the first floor having red-stone walls and he second floor a letter addition having aluminum siding. We have replaced the furnace as well as all the windows but now we are feeling the all the walls to be very cold and we have tried to covered all the places where we feel a draft; but unfortunately the house still feels very cold. Question 1. Any suggestions in how to best determined what we can do to insulate the walls and find any other drafts ourselves, without getting any professional help, if it is possible?
Wouldl ike to thank you in advanced for your help!