Parging a basement wall.

Questions and answers relating to houses built in the 1800s and before.

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houblon
Posts: 62
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 8:25 pm

Post by houblon »

HB,

I cite from your reference: "on wall and basement assemblies which are designed to dry to the interior, only vapor permeable paint systems (latex paint) should be used". I shudder at the thought of posting this in the Period Proporty UK forum. Over there the opinion is that the only vapor permable paint would be whitewash ( watered down lime putty) or distemper.
I have been unable to find scientific numbers for water permeability or breathability or whatnot. I have used latex paint on my own plaster repairs, simply because there was latex before, but if I would start from a fresh lime plaster wall in my basement I would go with whitewash.

bklynwebgrrl
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2007 1:56 pm
Location: Phildelphia, PA
Contact:

Post by bklynwebgrrl »

I would think whatewash too, something very light. We just finished painting with latex and it was like plastic on our skin. Doesn't seem like it breathes.

My question is, can you tint the whitewash with milk paint?
- Suzanne D.
18?? - Federal Brick Row House
Philadelphia, PA

houblon
Posts: 62
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 8:25 pm

Post by houblon »

If you search for "lime wash" in this forum http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/discussion_forum.htm you will find a lot of information.

Here is a link that mentions the addition of casein (milkpaint):
http://www.spab.org.uk/html/advice/tech ... f6e3e6d106

Here is another useful link:
http://www.buildingconservation.com/art ... vapour.htm

HB
Posts: 1645
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 12:24 pm
Location: Reading - PA

Post by HB »

For my application, I agree with you folks that whitewash or milk paint or maybe a mineral paint would be the way to go to maintain vapor permeability of the wall.

The probloem with whitewash though, is that it is meant to be renewed on a regular basis, - like annually. :cry:

In touring some historic homes this summer, I learned that there were repetetive entries in the account books for one estate for Plasterers to perform whitewashing. There was even references to it in the journal of the gentleman. Apparently at this place, once a year all the furniture had to be packed up and the house vacated for about a week while the whole place was re-whitewashed.

As far as latex paint being vapor permeable, I'm sure tht it is, otherwise the table top that I made for an outdoor table wouldn't warp horribly with the changes in humidity. it's got 2 coats top and bottom of the best latex that Home depot makes, and it still absorbs moisture. I've no doubt that the latex paint is much less vapor permeable that milk paint or whitewash, but if it's a compromise that someone can live with, it's WAY better than dryloc or cement for the wall.

HB - thinking those brits are way ahead of us on the breathability of a building issue.

houblon
Posts: 62
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 8:25 pm

Post by houblon »

HB,

your table top reminds me that I found a source that looks at the moisture excluding effectiveness of finishes on wood surfaces. Among 90 products tested there are a couple of latex paints. http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplrp/fplrp462.pdf
The product names can be found in http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf1985/feist85b.pdf


For example no. 80: acrylic flat house paint 1 with two coats has a MME of 77 (after 1 day) 28 (after 7 days) 11 (after 14 days). A MME of 100 would mean absolutely no vapor permeability. 0 means that it takes up as much water as the same material without any coating.

What this means for a brick wall that takes up humidity from the ground or outside air I don't know, but my guess is that you want to be close to MME 0. Anyone interested in repeating this study with wet bricks?

Conclusion: For your table top you should have used Soya tung alkyd satin enamel (no 67).

HB
Posts: 1645
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 12:24 pm
Location: Reading - PA

Post by HB »

Actually, for my table top I should have used proper joinery that would have kept the table top flat regardless of the coating I chose :?

I'm much wiser now :wink:

Thanks for the link to the paint study!

HB

techchaser
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 9:39 am

Re: Parging a basement wall.

Post by techchaser »

I parged my entire garage and under the steps with Quikrete Surface Bonding Cement. The surface bonding cement contains fiberglass and is very water resistant. I then primed and painted with Sherwin William Loxon. That was over 2 years ago and the walls have not leaked since. I have a de-humidifier on at all times to prevent humidity from accumulating in the rooms.
Note that before I started I did inspect the outside of the building to make sure that I was not having any grading or water runoff issues. My garage is located in the basement, rear of the building.
The exterior garage wall deteriorated because there were no gutters and the masonry wall needed to be pointed. The rain was running off the roof and landing on a 3-inch lip on top of the 4-foot masonry along the perimeter of the building. The house has brick above that 4-foot masonry. I had the masonry pointed and sealed. I also installed a new weather-tight garage door to keep the weather out.

stepan
Posts: 32
Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2013 12:58 am
Location: Philadelphia

Re: Parging a basement wall.

Post by stepan »

Also, When applying parging over painted walls, coat the walls with a bonding agent before you begin. This bonding agent will help the mortar bond more successfully with the painted surface. great tips!
Find garage door repair in Philadelphia here..

feewglurf
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bkhuff1s
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2020 9:16 pm

Re: Parging a basement wall.

Post by bkhuff1s »

HB - your article on Parging looks exactly like what I'm looking for. It looks like all the links on this page are dead though :( Got an updated one?

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