1830 farm house - door restoration, advice appreciated

[gregV]

Jazman,

Where is your home? In the New England area that would not be a circa 1830 exterior door, nor an 1830 door at all. We started seeing doors like that here closer to the civil war era.
Exterior doors were double thickness here also, pre 1850 ish.

Here is an older thread I did on a friends door viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27302

[jazzman]

Hi Greg,

Thanks for your reply.

When we purchased the house, we were told 1850 to 1860, which is right in the zone you're referring to. But then we had some minor internal renovation done, and the contractor told us that he thought it was earlier, due to certain elements in other parts of the house.

Our home is in upstate New York, New Paltz area.

Best,

Jazzman

[Sombreuil_Mongrel]

Hi Greg,

Thanks for your reply.

When we purchased the house, we were told 1850 to 1860, which is right in the zone you're referring to. But then we had some minor internal renovation done, and the contractor told us that he thought it was earlier, due to certain elements in other parts of the house.

Our home is in upstate New York, New Paltz area.

Best,

Jazzman

Cool,
I grew up in Bloomington.
Casey

[Don M]

It appears you can remove the exterior molding on the door wich would probably allow you to remove the wood panels which you could repair separately. The original front door on our 1830s farmhouse is thinner than new exterior doors available today. Mine is in good shape because it' has always been protected by a covered porch. I think mine is built similar to yours.

[jazzman]

Don - thanks for the reply.

Unfortunately, removing the molding around the panels does not work (I think that's the molding you were referring to). The panel is placed in a groove that is created on all sides by the rails and stiles. No way to remove the panels without disassembling the door.....

Best,

Jazzman

[jazzman]

Ok folks - I just thought I'd update the oldhouseweb universe on what I've tried to disassemble this old door of mine.

I have tried (separately):

1. denatured alcohol
2. heat gun
3. boiling water followed by heat gun
4. steam (iron)

All wedges have been drilled out before trying the aforementioned potential solutions.

I have had only minimal success. I can get the bottom of the door to start to give, and the middle joints a bit. But I have a feeling that the joints at the top of the door are so tight, that it's holding the rest of the door together.

And I'm not just trying with hand pressure to tug the stiles from the rails. I have six 500lb clamps that I have reversed so that they are spreaders.

I should say that my goal in taking the door apart is to investigate and repair the damage that exists at the bottom of the door.

I have been at this for days, and am just about out of ideas.

All suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Best,

Jazzman

[gregV]

Gasoline and a match?

[jharkin]

I'm probably stating the obvious, but I assume in addition to removing the wedges you punched or drilled out any pegs? (assume at that age the joints are pegged).

[jazzman]

jharkin - thanks for the advice. I have looked all over this door, and not found any pegs. My understanding is that sometimes they are wedged only.

Thanks --

Jazzman