Help identify wood flooring type.

[mross_pitt]

but aren't wood floors supposed to be installed parallel to the longest run of the room

Each layer is typically perpendicular to the last or the floor joists. I've had several houses where the original hallway flooring went side to side instead of parallel to the hallway. It just depends on the layout of the house. You can also install layers at angles to make the floor even stronger.

[Texas_Ranger]

but aren't wood floors supposed to be installed parallel to the longest run of the room

Each layer is typically perpendicular to the last or the floor joists. I've had several houses where the original hallway flooring went side to side instead of parallel to the hallway. It just depends on the layout of the house. You can also install layers at angles to make the floor even stronger.

In this case we were free to decide as we worked on top of a flat slab.

This is an old room split up into a hall, bathroom (no toilet) and a tiny half bath. I'm fairly sure the original wood floor (which was gone, replaced with really odd slab over dirt and 70s vinyl) ran with the direction of the light, that's perpendicular to what we did. In the end we figured we'd have to do less cutting and piecework if we went parallel to the longest run so that's what we did. The entire hall is about 5'8"x 11' with a small bumpout in front of the half bath/water closet.

[nezwick]

Makes sense!

[Sawed-After]

If you sanded and removed any surface material from the salvaged pine that would account for the light whitish color you said it was. As any wood ages it will drasticly change color, for instance leave freshly planed cherry board in the sun for a day and you wont recognise it at the end. You could definately get after with using the salvaged wood with stains which will likely not match that well imo, or the better method with a variety of shellacs. Try experimenting with different types of shellacs. Mainly in your case a less refined shellacs such as a button-lac shellac with would give it a warm honey/orange color, then after enough coats are done to give the color your looking for apply a laquer based finish, not sure what you were planning on, but most will adhere to the shellac

[eperot]

Nezwick, just for your enjoyment and to offer an example, these are pictures of our office floor before and after. There had been a top flooring (1960's?) with lots O' nails, so we have holes too but I feel it adds character. Anyhow, they were pretty beat but sanded out nicely, and the finish you see is a tung oil finish. It's from Sutherland Welles in Vermont and is super easy to apply, and seems to be relatively durable. you might also consider the fact that "retouching" a tung oil finish is much easier than others. No sanding required. Just brush on, wipe off. We used low luster, but they have a medium and high gloss as well. Whatever you choose, you will have beautiful floors and your house will thank you for revealing them!

[mjt]

eperot - looks fabulous!

[mross_pitt]

consider the fact that "retouching" a tung oil finish is much easier than others

I've found that retouching a tung oil finish(which is most cases is not real tung oil but a combo of products) changes the color of the floor on lighter floors. It's usually more yellow but fades to match the rest of the floor.