how to adhere drywall to brick?

Here you'll find a wide range of discussions on old-house topics.

Moderators: oldhouse, TinaB, Don M, Schag

how to adhere drywall to brick?

Postby philsvintageradios on Fri Aug 25, 2006 4:03 am

I am in the midst of redoing the kitchen. I decided to replace all of the dryall.
I took the drywall off uncovering the chimney, and it had been stuck down with what some sort of glue and a few drywall nails, this was done back in about 1950 and it held up that long. the nails were right in the grout and that seemed to work without causing a real lot of damage. they must have planned out well where to drive the nails..

It was nice that the brickwork wasn't really damaged, it came off nicely. I would leave it exposed but my wife wants it covered as it was.
she wins, I get free rule over some other rooms...

how can I stick my new drywall down so it doesen't come loose, but so it won't make a huge mess should I or the next owner ever want to uncover it again? the drywall has to be right up against the brick otherwise I need to build out the rest of the wall, which I would prefer not do..
I do use the fireplace on the other side, in the living room, so the brick might get a little warm.
I think they used contact cement, but it is difficult to tell. they painted something onto the back of the drywall , but not the brick.

Posts: 185
Joined: Fri Dec 09, 2005 4:04 am

Postby shod on Fri Aug 25, 2006 7:56 am

This may be the brute force way but they way I've seen it done is by plopping a big serving of compound around the back of the sheet around every 12" or so and then pressing the sheet in place, compressing the piles of compound.

seems to work well on thicker sheets like 1/2" +
Posts: 44
Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:52 pm

Postby leowis1 on Fri Aug 25, 2006 8:57 am

Damn, I got the exact same thing going on in my house. I had to break open the chimney wall to remove the terricotta to run a chimney liner. The 3rd floor is where I have to stick drywall on the bricks. I did a real sloppy job repairing that wall. I mixed up some quickrete and just starting slapping the bricks, and broken ones, up the cavity. I don't care how it looks because I'm putting drywall over it. But there were alot of spots of missing morter. Since I didn't care how it looked and the wall was only cosmetic (now that I have a liner behind it), I took a can of the "Great Stuff" and filled in all the little spots that I missed with the morter. :oops:

Nobody is ever going to see it and the babies are crying. It'll work!

I didn't know that chimnies turned behind walls! They never show this when Santa Clause comes down a chimney. I spent hours on this part. :evil:
Posts: 401
Joined: Wed Sep 14, 2005 3:49 pm
Location: Ambler, PA

Postby mhodge44 on Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:59 am

When faced with this problem, I just used drywall screws through the mortar between the brick. The screws would hold good and tight once I found the mortar. You will hit brick sometimes and have to pull that screw out as it is just hit and miss but they will hold just fine.
1907ish Foursquare
Posts: 371
Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2004 9:10 am
Location: Nashville

Re: how to adhere drywall to brick?

Postby keithsnyder on Fri Sep 08, 2006 9:39 pm

Former drywaller here...other than furring out and attaching the drywall to wood, laminating the drywall to the brick will be iffy, but it can be done. It's much easier to show someone how to do this than to write it out, but here goes... First, clean the surface of the brick by brushing hard with just a bristle brush, then scrub a bit with some water. Doesn't have to be clean enough to eat off of, but just to minimize loose gritty or powdery stuff. Make sure no little chunks are loose to fall into the way later. Murphy's law takes precedence over everything but God and gravity. Get the kind of construction adhesive -- the good stuff, not Liquid Nails. Use "stand-ups," long pieces floor-to-ceiling, rather than stacking 4'-wide ones. Try to mark the mortar lines on the rock as best as you can, since in my experience sometimes brick shatters rather than accepting a nail. When you have the pieces cut and ready to go, put globs on the brick rather than long lines of adhesive for the board to squish into. In my house I used 1" concrete nails to hold 5/8" rock. Push the drywall into the globs until contact with the brick is made, then, holding the rock to the wall so it doesn't start to back off, tap in the nail until it touches, then try to drive it home with one or two solid bangs (I use a 28-oz. shingling hatchet for hanging drywall). If the rock isn't tight to the wall, the vibrations that set up will further loosen it from the glue globs it had contact with, and any nails that have been driven home will likely pop the paper and become ineffective. The glue, not the nails, is what will hold it to the wall. The nails are just to hold it long enough for the glue to set.

It's harder to laminate to brick than to concrete. I've actually used drywall nails successfully for concrete, but in a very particular way. Brick? I hate it.
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 11:36 am
Location: Houghton, MI, USA

Postby toddinnb on Sun Sep 10, 2006 9:24 am

I've had to tackle this issue in the past. I put a few good-sized blobs of "PL-Premium" construction adhesive, held the sheet in place for 2-3 minutes, and walked away from it. It's been there 6 years now.

Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Aug 17, 2006 3:19 pm

Return to General Discussions Forum

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests