All peppers except tabasco are covered in this section. Peppers require full sun and grow best on mineral soils, but will tolerate most well drained soils with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8 Peppers produce earlier on sandy soils. Peppers are usually set in the garden as transplants. Seed started indoors develops suitable transplants in 8 to 10 weeks. Planting outdoors is done in late May. Space plants 2 feet apart in rows 3 feet apart. Avoid planting too early, peppers grow little at temperatures below 50 degrees and are injured by just a hint of frost. Hot peppers will not influence the flavor of other peppers. If no other fertilizer was applied, use 2 cups of 12-12-12 per 25 feet or row. Immediately after flowering give each plant 1/2 cup fertilizer applied in a 2 foot circle around the plant. A starter solution may be used at transplanting. Peppers benefit from a 3 inch mulch. Proper watering prevents fruit drop and blossom end rot.
Harvest crisp, firm fruits, that have reached maximum size. They can be picked green or when colored. Cut the pepper, taking some of the stem with the fruit. Frequent picking increases yield.
The first symptom of blossom end rot is a light colored, sunken, watersoaked spot near the bottom of the fruit. The spots enlarge and shrivel. A third of the fruit may be involved with blossom end rot. Causes are high temperatures and low humidity or low water supply when the fruit was set.
Blossom drop can be caused by high temperatures during bloom. Blossom drop can occur when night temperatures are higher than 78 and day temperatures are higher than 90 degrees. Drying winds may also be a factor.
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|Blossom end rot on pepper - 30K|