Repairing Pocket Door Hardware, Including Tracks & Stops

This procedure includes guidance on repairing pocket door hardware withsalvage or modern assemblies. Work may include
replacing a missing or severely damaged floor track in a pocket door. It mayalso include repairing double pocket doors that roll out beyond the centerpoint. This is usually caused by either a missing metal stop piece or buildingsettlement.

NOTE: IF TOP HUNG DOOR HARDWARE MUST BE REPLACED, PORTIONS OFADJACENT WALLS MUST BE DEMOLISHED.

DEFINITIONS

Top-hung pocket doors are unique because of their hardware. There are twotypes of hanging hardware for pocket doors:

• Single roller type: Has one roller (front and back) and makes use of one metal track
• Side by side roller type: Has two rollers (front and back) that move along on matching wood tracks on either side of the roller assembly.

Unlike pocket doors with a bottom track, top hung doors have a retractablemetal or wood finger mounted at rear edge of door called a rear stop. This stopmust be released for door to clear pocket for repair.

SYSTEM DESCRIPTION

A pocket door assembly in good working condition is free from decay andstructurally sound. It is effortlessly smooth sliding and properly aligned. Thepocket doors stop precisely when closed and are easily retrieved from pocket.The door latches crisply and should not rattle between latch and stops whenclosed.

MATERIALS

A. New or salvage hardware

B. Replacement plaster and lath

C. Mild steel flat stock and rod

D. Screws

E. Materials for plaster and lath replacement

F. Metal mending angle

G. Metal pipe and plate

EQUIPMENT

A. Carpenter's tools to remove door casing, jamb, and stop

B. Tools to remove and replace plaster

C. Manufacturer specified tools for installing new hardware

D. Drill capable of making hole through metal

E. Tack welding equipment

F. Screwdriver

G. Tools for removing base board

H. Hacksaw


EXECUTING THIS JOB

PREPARATION

Protection: Mask or cover adjacent surfaces and permanent equipment duringrepair and maintenance. Coverings must be adhered without adhesive tape ornails. DO NOT USE impervious sheeting that produces condensation.

ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION

Replacement Using Salvage Hardware:

1. Remove a 4-1/2" to 6" wide swath of plaster and lath on one side ofpocket.

2. Repair hardware or replace with similar salvage hardware. Warped wood trackscan be easily replicated.

Replacement Using New Hardware:

NOTE: MODERN HARDWARE USES BALL BEARINGS RATHER THAN ROLLERS. MOREPLASTER MAY HAVE TO BE REMOVED FOR REPLACEMENT.

1. Install new blocking between door framing to provide surface for attachinghardware. Follow manufacturer's instructions for installing hardware andadjusting door heights.

2. Screw in new track assembly overhead with rollers popped in place.

3. Screw new flanges to top of doors.

4. Slip door and flanges in place and adjust door height.

NOTE: FLOOR TRACK INCLUDED WITH NEW HARDWARE IS USUALLY NOT NEEDED INTHIS TYPE OF APPLICATION UNLESS A FLOOR TRACK ALREADY EXISTS.

5. Replace plaster and lath as required.

For Damaged or Deteriorated Track:

NOTE: REPLACEMENT TRACK MUST FIT SIZE OF ROLLERS MORTISED IN BOTTOMOF DOOR.

1. Purchase and install new track and matching rollers - or use salvagematerials.

2. If prefabricated replacement floor track is unavailable, replacement trackcan be produced with metal stock.

a. Drill holes down center of mild steel flat stock at 6" o.c.

b. Tack weld a steel rod through the holes that matches the diameter of rollers.

c. Drill countersunk screw holes, into flat stock, at 6" o.c., staggered oneither side of rod.

d. Adhere new track to floor.

NOTE: WALL SURFACE DOES NOT NEED TO BE COMPLETELY REMOVED. CLEARANCEINSIDE
POCKET ENOUGH FOR USE OF A SCREWDRIVER IS ALL THAT IS NEEDED.

1) To access track inside pocket, remove baseboard on less conspicuous side ofpocket.

2) Remove wall surface by cutting a `V' in plaster with utility knife or chisel.Top of 'V' should be about 8" above finished floor.

3) Carefully remove plaster inside 'V' and remove lath.

For a Missing Metal Stop:

1. If doors fit together like a tongue and groove joint, cut a metal stop from ametal mending angle.

2. Cut one leg of the angle so that it will hang down from the top guide to justmeet the top of the
doors.

3. Mortise the top piece of the angle into the top guide.

4. If doors have rounded edges, make a stop out of two halves of a piece ofproperly sized pipe welded to a metal plate; screw metal plate into a mortisecut into the top guide.

For Doors that Run Below the Level of the Stop Guides:

CAUTION: TAKE CARE, AS DOOR COULD FALL OUT OF POCKET.

1. Increase the depth of the molding by providing additional material.

-OR-

Replace entire stop molding.